30 April 2024: Big 25s

English Civil War

My 25mm ECW New Model minis are the big version, i.e., measured from the soles of the feet to eye level. The other form of measuring 25mm is from sole to top of head which can be confusing because it's very close to 20mm which is sometimes referred to as being 1/72 although it's more accurate to call it 1/76. Confused? Don't worry, so am I.  

First New Model Horse unit is almost done. Miscalculated with the standard bearer so will likely send through another order for some more suitable cavalry types for conversion soon. A work-in-progress (WIP) photo of my first Ironsides unit, based off the ECW Cavalry header image on Lancashire Games website. Basecoated only. Done mock-up to see the overall impact they will generate. Happy with what's done.

I will most likely send through another order to Lancashire Games in the next month or two partly for the standard bearer conversions and to complete my Naseby list (missing the right cavalry wing plus some more artillery). Going with the standard cavalry to foot ratio of 1:2 for the times. Eventually, if conditions improve financially, I will create a suitable Royalist opponent from the same time. King Charles I and Prince Rupert will ride again along with Aspley and Goring. And others. 

I am not expecting this ECW army list to see much game time any time apart from the odd garage game. Just a vibe I get. Sometimes strong. Sometimes wrong. But whatever the future holds, I will continue to concentrate on painting the list up to tabletop display standard using whatever source or reference tickles the fancy. 

Using multiple existing painting examples as sources of inspiration. In most cases, I will simply copy as (a) I don't suitable uniform text for reference, and (b) I've decided to take my sweet time with this painting project. No real rush. One or two units a month is a reasonable goal set. As I have eleven or thirteen units (headquarters and artillery included), that is a good solid six months work ahead of me providing I can stay healthy. 

Reading several reference texts to further familiarise myself with the period, in particular the New Model period and onwards. But knowing the history that led up to the formation of the New Model is also useful. So I've been consulting Sir Charles Firth's The Regimental History of Cromwell's Army (1940) - 2 vols for details regarding individual units. Started reading a copy of Malcolm Wanklyn and Frank Jones' A Military History of the English Civil War, 1642-1646, (2005).

There are other texts I can readily access such works such as Clarendon's The History of the Rebellion and Civil Wars in England (1826 reprint) as well as Evelyn's work (title eludes me at the moment as I only know it exists from other sources). 

Keen to get access to Sprigg's Anglia Rediviva because it's a primary source, as well as John Okey's memoirs. Know nothing other than it's mentioned by many other contemporary and earlier historians of the period so its' definitely worth a look-see providing I can access a copy. Not sure if it will provide vital uniform and flag details - given I'm resisting the temptation to go out and buy the damn books!

Made start on first Foot unit as well. Using Osprey's Warrior 43: Matchlock Musketeer 1588-1688 (2002) by Keith Roberts (illustrator Stephen Walsh) as my current go-to for a suitable foot unit look. To date, however, my online research hasn't been all that successful, especially regarding cavalry flags and uniforms generally. Maybe it's time to purchase suitable uniform books. But there is still one avenue left to me still so will venture there first.

Foot unit (above) unnamed as yet but a start made tonight. Red coats basecoated scarlet; will lighten close to the Venice Red in progressive layering and washes. Sky blue or white stockings. Jacket lining (their facings) deep blue. Chose to paint the drummer in reverse coloured jacket. Will elaborate eventually befitting its status. Officers/standard bearers will wear civilian clothing with symbols of their rank and authority accordingly (not started yet however). 

Notice how cramped the centre portion of the Pike and Shot unit looks. Had to position the four figures make them fit the 60mm wide. Considered and experimented with reducing the number to three figures like the musketeers stands but for now I will stay with the suggested four figures per base. 

Big 25s is the reason for the tight fitting. Hinchliffe are a name brand from my past which I always wanted to own. Despite some shortcomings - some of the figures malformed or misshapen but nothing overly obvious - I am content to make-do. And I reckon these will come up nicely and make an attractive addition to my gaming cabinet if I paint them well enough. My wife is my test evaluator and she thought the cavalry unit looked great, as did my gaming buddy. Good enough by me.

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Bandidos & Burritos

Going to revisit the Oathsworn site to see if they've updated their minis page. Last time I was there it was slim pickings especially in regards to the figures wanted. 

Awaiting on my gaming buddy to get back to me on a possible joint order from Critter Kingdoms. Reviewed their extensive range of figures and spotted a few that looked interesting. Even saw the Frog series and wondering if my mate will go for those. Overall though, they look like the display models that a collector might enjoy. 

Briscon 2024 is on this weekend so am hoping to scout out some minis to add to my warband. Then it's back home for a game or two. 

I am wondering if they might sell suitable minis when Supernova visits town in November.

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PC Gaming

For the past month I have chosen to take a break from the endless daily grind that is World of Warships because it was depressing me. Only showing up for the Dockyard event's new mission release (weekly). Completing the required six missions in one session, maximising specific ships that will earn the rewards faster. Such as my favourite gunboat DD, Groningen. Easily earns over one hundred ribbons with her rapid fire. Even takes down battleships and battlecruisers! No torps but smoke and hydro.

Also playing Asymmetric battle mode in my current favourite US battleship, Ohio. Strong guns and excellent heal, Ohio is one premium I'm glad I obtained when I did. Asymmetric is where you and four other players take on BOTS who are two tiers lower. There are twelve of them. And they will focus on you if they catch you alone or unprepared. It's fun because you get action (especially if in a slow battleship) so you're not wasting time and getting frustrated because you're missing out on zapping enemy ships. Plus, you also learn to work as a team to defeat the greater odds. There is no room for BOT playing (sailing to a corner and doing nothing). Everyone contributes. Remember one game where a player simply crossed to the other side, loitered a bit, then returned when all the hard work had been done. So, yeah, it does happen but not as often as in Randoms.

And occasionally I will join in with the rest of my clan to conduct Divisional Star missions when invited. 

Hoping they bring back Convoy battle mode. It's against other players and is always fun and interesting. Randoms and Ranked these days are to be avoided if you can. Many complain it's toxic most times and the playing talent these days is not as good as in the past. And tactics tend to be predictable and frustrating (sniping long range from back of the map, for instance or ignoring mission objectives such as capping when the opportunity presents itself). 

Played out also with Stardew Valley. The latest update, 1.65 (or 1.6.5) was interesting for a while. But now it's getting boring because it's repetitive. Objectives are the same. New festivals soon become old familiar ones. Already waiting on Update 1.7 though when that's likely to debut may mean waiting until 2030!

Looking elsewhere therefore for new games to play. Looking especially hard at Pacific Drive. Again. And I know Helldiver 2 is popular with a couple of YT streamers I follow. But it looks very familiar to a lot of other FPS games; I haven't even played Starship Troopers Extermination for that same reason.

Watched Trenlass play Helldiver 2 earlier tonight (29 April) and he seemed very casual playing it while chatting with his teammates as if they were sitting on a park bench casually watching the lunch crowd and cooing pigeons.  Dude is one of my favourite WOWS streamers. He has a very positive and calm demeanour in his play style and speech. He doesn't get emotionally charged like Flambass (but then Flambass is known as one of the best DD players in the game from way back and has seen it all so knows what he's talking about) or Flamu who is so smart he should be running his own gaming company, not playing other people's games for a living; but then he's so critical of the WOWS developers and organisation he's always going to be antagonistic toward their product and their policies. A sort of Devil's Advocate voice for the rest of us other "dumb" gamers. Lol. 

Of my limited library of other Steam games, I haven't really bothered to review and re-engage. Nearly all have been played at least once. The exceptions are games acquired on a whim and which don't interest me at the moment for whatever reason. Games like Project Zomboid, Rainbow Six:Siege, Homeworld: Remastered Collection to name a few.

Take care...

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21 April 2024: English Civil War - the journey begins...!

Today, in order to stop myself from just lazing about playing computer games, I went into the studio and forced myself to start painting (finally) my English Civil War New Model Army list.

Filing and Basecoating Stage (no detailing at all)

Had already started filing but still missed a couple of mounts. Only picked it up upon inspecting after applying the priming coat. Using a light grey instead of the usual black primer. 

My plan was to use a black wash to help pick out the details after priming. 

Most of the filing was done with the mounts because there were a few poorly or incomplete casting. After fixing the worst mistakes, I began painting. First unit is an Ironsides unit. Originally listed as Butler's Horse but now also known as Fairfax's Horse. Either way, they're Ironsides.

Colouring two different tones. One uses Vellajo Plague Brown for the lighter tan-colouring and for the darker mounts I had to use equal mix of Vallejo Beastly Brown and Scarlet admixed with a droplet or two of Black because the original colour selected dropper was empty. Left the bugler's mount in its light grey primer coat and just a dull Black on its mane, tail, and legs (photo above). 

The Hinchliffe lot does not come with cavalry standard bearers but as I am in a bit of a rush, I'm foregoing the cornet until my next order when I will have more time and can carefully select my figure for conversion. 

Applied rough coat of paint on the riders. The Ironsides buff coat basecoat is a lighter tan Vallejo colour (name escapes me at the moment). Using blue sashes and dark brown pistol holders and boots for the other items. Saddle cloth will be red or scarlet with blue trim. But all that will be covered in the detailing section. In between the washes.

Next unit for the painting table - a unit of Gallopers. Pye's Horse. Assembled after filing done. Ready for priming. 

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Personalities

Fun part. Two earlier period commanders were also basecoated. Detailing to follow. 

Above is Earl of Manchester

Above is Earl of Essex

The two will be used in the next get-together game later on in the week. Hence their inclusion as part of the paint rush. Cheers....

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23 April

Coming down with the lurgy so won't be posting for a while. Cheers.

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20 April: Another game of ....uh...Burglars and bunglers??

Got a late text from my regular gaming friend while I was dying from doing yardwork with my son last night. Would I? Could I? Should I? I replied yes and then quietly died. Later, I got up and ate potato chips, that little-known miracle cure for dying from doing yardwork. Then started work on my ECW figures to keep the momentum trotting along nicely with a hot cup of barista-style coffee.

Today, at high noon, we met and resumed our introduction to Bratwurst and Bogans. If my wife had joined us, it would be a game of Bed and Breakfast....! As it was, we jumped down the rabbit hole with gusto.

The Missing Treasure of Toad Hall

Word reached far and wide that there was treasure in the ruins of Toad Hall. Many had ventured, but so far nothing was found.

It was rumoured that the former lord of the manor, Master Toad, had departed for far off lands to seek further fame and fortune. Unfortunately, in his absence, his estate fell into ruination as those left in charge absconded with all of Toad's worldly possessions leaving the buildings to fall into decay and desecration. But none were able to locate the missing treasure, said to be full of precious gems and gold.

It was rumoured to be never in the same spot, changing location always on a whim. 

This time, however, two warbands were on a collision course, choosing the same time to seek the treasure of Master Toad.

Leading one group was Sir Hopworth O'Hare. With him was Daisy the Witch, Robby the Mouse thief, and Akenarsty the Crocodilian. 

From the opposite corner approached the group of Sir Mikky Mouse. With him was Mini Mouse the Shieldmaiden, Ron Weezly the Stoat with his trusty and accurate crossbow, and the sneaky Silas Addermouth. 

The other side's plan (as revealed later) was simple: use the tall buildings to provide cover for the missileman (Mr Weasel) to target the enemy backed up by the spell caster (Mr Adder). Meanwhile the others (Mr and Mrs Mouse) would search the buildings. And it seemed to work out for them as the Hare leader got targeted and took heavy hits.

Then Mr Adder successfully cast the Transpose Spell and my Crocodilian warrior suddenly found himself switching places with Mr Weasel; instead of rushing toward the statue of Master Toad he found himself standing on the open third level of the ruined tower building! 

Meanwhile Daisy - sometimes known as Wanda - the Witch was able to cast the Brilliance spell which would last for 3 turns (roll d4) and meant she couldn't be targeted by missile fire or spell casting unless she suffered a wound (i.e. falling over a cliff and hurting herself or missing a jump). So she could slink about relatively untouched until the spell died out.

While all this was going on, and my warband's attention was distracted, the mice duo searched through the various buildings levels. And, fortuitously, the Mouse leader happened across the loot. 

Game Over.

Postscript: thanks to my host for setting up a glorious table. Setting enhances gameplay (naturally) and really brighten and colourizes this batrep. 

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Summary

Today we tested group dynamics focusing on shooting and casting magic spells. Firstly, allow me to state that the rules themselves are poorly written with the wording vague. There is much leeway for misinterpretation as we are finding out as we continue our introduction to them. But we persist because we both enjoy skirmish games, like animals, and like quick games. We also enjoy ripping rules to shreds.  

When determining wounds with shooting, the number of wounds leftover from the roll-off can prove offputting. But as we nutted the situation out, we realised that the number of wounds, as mentioned in the rules, actually describes the severity or degree of damage done. It was the only possible explanation for the fact that 1 crossbow bolt fired can cause 5 wounds on a heavily armoured figure with a heavy shield!

This also hints at the location of the wound although this is not as important as understanding the reason behind the quantity being what it is. For example, a wound to the arm is less severe than one to the chest. In the game, the Hare leader was targeted by the Weasel crossbow. The shooting was successful and modifiers applied. What was left over was the number of wound which ended up being 5 wounds suffered by the knight. Ouch!

Of course, part of the problem is how we understood the wording of the rule. Hence my claim that the wording needs to clear and unambiguous. It's my personal bugbear. I cannot speak for others who may find it perfectly clear and understandable. 

Spell casting. Be aware that, in most situations where casting a spell is directed against an opponent, that it's based on rolling off against a zero outcome. For example, my opponent wanted to cast the Transpose spell against my Crocodilian in favour of his Weasel. For my Crocodilian to defeat the Adder's casting, he had to beat the caster's target (5). Sidenote: as my Crocodilian does not exist in the rules, we agreed to use the Raptor's skill stats instead as it seemed closest. So, he got to roll his Fortitude (d8) against the adder's Presence (d8). Which meant he had to roll a 6,7,8 to defeat the caster. He lost. 

With Spells, we ignored the cost for Ingredients choosing to agree that our spell casters had the required ingredients. Also, we opted to run with just two spells. 

Before we found the Search section in the rulebook, we chose a house rule of rolling 2d6 to determine if treasure is found - 11 or 12. Any other double reveals the location of a map (carried over to the next scenario if not discovered in this game). Each floor triggers a search. Once a search is done, that floor cannot be searched again. Like I said, we did this PRIOR to discovering the Search section in the rulebook. Worked for us anyway...well, for my opponent, I mean!

Next game of Bungalows and Belligerent is scheduled for a fortnight. Hoping to acquire more warband figures in the meanwhile from Critters Kingdom. 

Our eventual goal will be playing one of the rulebook Scenarios. Eventually, once we're familiar with the rules as a whole, we will conduct a full Campaign. Cheers.

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19 April 2024: English Civil War: Starting the New Model Army

First unit off the cab rank is Butler's Ironsides. 

First time also for properly assembling white metal minis. In particular, drilling and gluing. The painting part seems more straightforward but getting there will provide fun as well as the usual frustration. 

Finished filing tonight while listening to some Emerson, Lake and Palmer. Will prime this lot in the morning. Got a game of Bunglers and Bungalows with my gaming buddy around noon. Should give minis time to fully dry so that when I get home I can start basecoating them. Will figure how to attach them permanently to one another and basing Sunday. Will leave conversion of the standard bearer for during the week (range does not include cavalry cornets - you have to convert them yourself).

My Parliamentarian ally has a pre-1645 army list so will paint up these two dudes as proper commanders: he's using preachers which are fine but their license grants them spiritual authority rather than martial prowess. These figures, unlike Butler's Horse, are by Old Glory (USA) being part of their Parlimentarian Personalities range. Lovely and clean sculpts. 

Will start Okey's Dragoons once this grouping is done. Will likely do the three regimental guns as well. And maybe, just maybe, fit in one more cavalry unit before the next scheduled meetup later in the week.

Cheers...

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Correction

Butler's Horse is now Fairfax Horse. Whalley's Horse still remains the other Ironsides unit. Learning as I go. Apparently the "double" regiment raised and trained by Cromwell was split up and became these two New Model Army units. Veterans too. Therefore these will become my twin Death Star units. Going to upgrade them both to 6-bases units instead of the original 4-bases. List modifying thus begins.

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15 April 2024: ECW minis have arrived...

Both ECW deliveries arrived today. One from the US - Old Glory 25mm Parliamentarian Personalities - Cromwell, Fairfax, Manchester, Essex, Waller, and Skippon. The other, more substantial, was from the UK - Hinchliffe 25mm ECW. Very impressed with the UK delivery because they delivered precisely on the date they stated. Less so with the US order but glad nonetheless that it finally did arrive, and on the same day too!

Spent the evening sorting through the packets and labelling them according to their online listing. And then begins the preparation and actual painting process - trimming the excess and cleaning the mould lines, priming, undercoat, painting, sealing. Really want to do a smick-bang job with this lot so will be careful but fast.

Finally, a big shout out to Allan Lumley from Lancashire Games (UK), stockists of Hinchliffe ECW 25mm figures. He went out of his way regarding my first order, clarifying when I was confused and muddling my way through the website listings, and keeping me informed throughout the ordering process, when the order was packed and forwarded it on to the postal delivery carrier. And the carrier, for its part, really stepped up by delivering on time when they said they would. So, hats off also to FedEx UK and ParcelHero (UK).

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18 April

Math always trips me up. Miscalculated on the number of horses needed after a long night of assigning all the minis to their units. Got an extra Horse unit from it but have enough riders to fill another unit. So will need to order more from Lancashire Games. Anyway, here is how I've organised the minis received:

Army Commander - Fairfax

• 3 x Aides
• 1 x General assisting

Cavalry Brigade #1 - Cromwell

• Butler's Horse (Ironsides)
• Ireton's Horse (Ironsides)
• Whalley's Horse (Ironsides)

Cavalry Brigade #2 - Ireton

• Vermuyden's Horse (Carabiniers)
• Pye's Horse (Light cav) - newly raised
• Okey's Dragoons

Infantry Brigade #1 - Skippon

• Skippon's Foot
• Waller's Foot
• Pickering's Foot

Infantry Brigade #2 - Waller

• Montagu's Foot
• Fairfax's Foot
• Forlorn Hope or Commanded Shot

Artillery

• 3 Regimental cannons

Extras yet to be assigned

• King Charles I
• Earl of Essex
• Earl of Manchester
• 5 x Colonels/Generals

I am going to buy the rest of my list - two more light cavalry units, one spare foot unit (large unit of firelocks)  plus four artillery pieces (sakers) formed into two batteries and attendant limbers, ammo carts and baggage wagons. Might as well. 

What to paint first. Well, my Parliamentarian comrade urgently requires more cavalry including dragoons as well as personalities so will start there. Will post progress pics of the cavalry units and personalities over the next few days - inbetween ongoing yard work. 

Renovating and thereby reusing the old garage next month which will provide a second gaming zone. Still keeping the existing studio but will employ it more for other activities (sewing circle anyone?). Anyway, the front two-thirds of the new garage will serve as a suitable tabletop gaming zone with the back third offering part space for my new secondary workshop. At least that's the plan, but awaiting final approval from the wife...as always.

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19 April

Navigating the minefield of researching units flags and standards can be perilous as well as frustrating, especially when not using existing reference books. But it adds to the fun, and helps pass the lonely nights. So far, I've learned the following:

Butler's Horse - Formerly Heselrige's "Lobsters" of Sir William Waller's Army (1642-5). Taken into the New Model Army as Butler's. Afterwards, became Horton's. Base standard colour is green with green and white edging. Device is arm with sword emerging from cloud and a device next to it distinguishing individual troops. Standard, or cornet, was 2 foot square. Carried by the most junior officer (known as cornet). 

Ireton's Horse. Inherited from Sir Michael Livesey's regiment who also served in Waller's army. Cornet colour is red with white and black edging trim. Devices varied between troops and commander inclination.

Okey's Dragoons. Firstly, dragoons in the 17th century were simply mounted musketeers. The quality of mount was poor in comparison to their standard cavalry brethrens. Apart from riding boots and the occasional buff-coat, dragoons wore pretty much the same attire as their musketeer counterparts. Officers wore their own civilian clothes. Drummers were preferred over trumpeters for communicating orders and signals; there were 2 per troop. Dragoons were often split into smaller units of 2-3 troops and distributed wherever their specialised skills were needed. Dragoon flags are unique in that they carried swallow-tailed guidons 2 feet square. Following flag convention of the time, the flag was plain (left blank) for colonel's troop, a small St George Sross in upper left canton signified the second in command, and a st george cross with distinctive devices were used by the remaining troops. Exception to this existed, particularly Waller's and Luke's dragoons who dispensed with the St. George Cross altogether and settled on the device as their distinguishing feature. 

Firelocks, being artillery guard, did not carry flags or standards. Carried flintlocks rather than matchlocks because of danger posed by lighted match around volatile gunpowder. Waller's Firelocks wore blue coats while two companies attached to the New Model Army wore tawny coats. 

More to follow...

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9 April 2024: Burrows and Badgers

Finally got started playing this fascinating skirmish game with anthropomorphic creatures. Regular gaming buddy called round and we introduced ourselves to the game. Below is our playthrough of the combat phase. We started with one-on-one combat. Then made it two-on-two. Picked up the rules pretty quickly and it has got us both interested. 

Ran the warband I bought some time ago. My buddy was keen to try out this skirmish game and it proved an interesting experience for us both. We plan to catch up next time soon. Looking forward to seeing his Mr. Toad warband with cats and beavers. 

Learned that you need all the dice from d4 to d20 as each character has different traits and qualities. From a beginner's perspective, you do need the Roster Sheet to keep scores on wounds. Every four wounds accumulated costs you -1 on subsequent die rolls. If a leader, that's means every action whether fighting or moving. 

When playing two-on-two it became interesting as you suffer/benefit accordingly when outnumbered (fighting more than one). 

You get modifiers for various moments like what type of equipment in your possession at the time, and character traits as well as actions.

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Addendum

d20 dice are useful as visual record of keeping score on wounds, an initiative my game buddy came up with while we were learning the game. Smart dude; by the way, he came fourth in Warmaster at CANCON 2024, a game he's never played before. Had a hearty chuckle when he told me of his placing and how it unfolded.

If looking for alternatives to the very popular figures by Oathmark (the original authors of the game) who often run out of the figures you may need then Critter Kingdoms offer a very nice and expansive range option. The figures shown below are from the Dark Sword Miniatures Inc website (USA). I am tempted by one of their minis in particular and may purchase it to add to my existing warband simply because it's a lovely figure.

Ferret Druid with Staff. Sculpted by Christine Van Patten. Painted by Mary Proffit. Figures are pewter and may require some assembly. Images above and below of said miniatures are by Dark Sword Miniatures Inc.

Also keen to buy one of the larger creatures as used in the B&B to compare (size-wise) when stacked up against the Oathmark models. Any Large Creature will do. Maybe this Badger Ranger with Bow by Jason Weibe (also painted by Mary Proffit) will suffice? If not, then they will look nice adorning my display cabinet.

But maybe I will contact the company first and ask about dimensions of the selected individuals. 

My gaming buddy is getting his minis from Slaugterloo. There is also Eureka Miniatures here in Oz although their range is limited to a single creature (frog) in multiple poses. There are other sites no doubt although my initial search yielded these results first.

13 April

Emailed the owner of the Critter Kingdoms regarding compatibility with Oathmark's Burrows & Badgers. Sadly, he told me the creatures are all of similar size so that a mouse is about the same size as a badger. Still going to buy a couple of minis though as I do like their quality. And figure out a way to incorporate them into my growing warband.

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Napoleonic

The minis from the Borodino Refight are all now packed away in their storage boxes ready for final storage. Took me a few hours over two nights. Only a few figures have been misplaced, lost, or are broken. Just have to figure out where to put the collective whole as storage space is tight at the moment. 

Currently sitting atop Table 2 in the other room (phot above). Bought 2 large tubs long ago (under the table) to accept the quantity of mini containers invested on the French/Allied side but the poor Russians will have to settle for their old pizza boxes which really doesn't work out long-term as they are too shallow (like the original actual pizzas).

14 April

It is unfair to have storage containers for the French/Allied forces while the Russians make do with roped-in-old-pizza-boxes. There needs to be balance and fairness. So, over the next few days, I will hunt down suitable containers from a suitable store (not Bunnings) to cater to the individual corps (where possible) or settle for individual division containers, as I have done with the French. 

Then I can figure out where to store them all (looking at you large empty storage tubs) - the real problem.

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9 April: What a waste of time and effort that was...!

Finally began putting away all the minis from the Borodino refight given my regular gaming buddy and I are catching up for a chinwag and a possible game tonight. TONIGHT? Aaargh....!

Russians are the first to return to their storage boxes. Which just leaves the French. Made a start before quitting for the night (this was taken yesterday). Problems include:

1. Putting them into storage. Got a medley of old pizza boxes that are suitable for a single entire Corps of infantry or cavalry but cannot be stacked on top of one another because of depth issue
2. Checking them off their lists (not as simple or straightforward): ensuring they are still all there. Found some extra Cossacks for some reason. Karpov, you old sly dog you...!
3. Finding a place for all of this means rearranging what limited storage spaces there are. And with the size of this collection, tossing them into a small hobby sulo-style bin is just lazy.

What's left as shown in the photo above are the remaining French. Part of them. Did not take a photo of other room where Table 2 is located.

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What a waste of time and effort that was...!

This report is a sober look at the entire Refight process from start to finish. Aim is to serve as a warning to myself to think before I commit to any such future endeavour of this scale and magnitude. Obviously, I didn't think deep enough because I got shafted down this blind hole without a guide. But having an idea what to expect next time should aid me if I should ever again contemplate the notion...in 1/72 scale.

The Models

PAINTING. Nothing more off-putting and confusing than seeing a bunch of cavalry mounts beautifully painted but missing their riders. Ensure they're properly glued/attached too. And protect from constant handling by applying a seal coat or protective varnish. Found out to my surpise when handling some of the older minis that they just crumble upon direct touch. Gives new meaning to the expression "touch of death"!

BASING. Uniformity rules. Don't mix and match bases (usually when incorporating bases from earlier efforts) unless you cannot help it. They may not match well. Because it does look grand come tabletop time when such collective uniformity is spread before your very eyes. Ever watch those massive military parades? Because of availability and personal preference I have used foam board for my basing because I like the look of their chunky depth. They also they have one side sticky which helps when attaching the minis. Their only weakness with this is that the minis can sometime come off during handling in-game. Why is why you glue the minis to the bases in the first place. Art foam boards are relatively cheap although I should warn not to settle for the cheap Chinese knock-offs. It will cost slightly more but go instead to a camera shop or a proper art supply store where the quality should be a lot better - both in stickiness and when cutting (as in foam not crumbling apart or air pockets revealed during the cutting process). I might have used a more sturdier material like MDF or plastic card but foam board (3mm thick) is, I found, perfect. And, after all, 1/72 plastic miniatures have a limited lifespan depending on the brand and plastic type (soft or hard). They're certainly not as durable as white metal.

LABELS. Underside, the back edging of the base, colour coding the back edge side...whatever you choose, easy identification is absolutely essential, a given. It really spares you moments of frustration when you accidentally knock a swag off as you bloat your way past the table and try to restore them to their original placing. Anything above an Army level of minis begs labelling. You would be foolish not to ID every stand whereby a regiment might be four or five stands and the figures look almost identical from the front. I chose to label my minis on the underside. Labelling at the back of the stand spoils those award-winning battle pics you take in-game. 😉

STORAGE. Simply because of the scale of the project - mammoth-plus - ensure you have an adequate amount of storage bins. I chose to employ large tubs suitable for armies/army groups that are also able to accommodate lots of smaller storage containers (division/brigade size). This approach saves on storage where space in your mancave is tight. Also make sure those containers are also correctly labelled appropriately. Label everything. You do that with life anyway; how is it any different with your minis?

SCALE. I inherited 1/72 as my refight scale simply because I had a large collection of half-painted and unpainted Russians that I had been wanting to paint up since 2016. The scale of your minis also factors in cost. Obtaining second-hand lots is well and good. Turning that into a playable large-scale battle however is another thing altogether insofar as you may have to prop up your collection buying additional figures. As I quickly found out I had a sizeable shortage of figures needed to refight Borodino. So spent extra when I didn't plan on it. 

For such large-scale actions, so I've since realised, a smaller scale just makes more sense. Still reasonably priced too; certainly they will cost much less in the long run. And you can plan to obtain all the necessary figures you actually do need in one hit - if you can afford it. Scale impacts on everything else related to conducting a large-scale engagement like Borodino. Leipzig is a perfect example where refighting it in 6mm makes perfect sense. Not as spectacular as some prior attempts (thinking that Leipzig group from the early 2010s who fought part of the battle using 1/72 on a 1:1 ratio - truly spectacular).

PROXIES. Not ideal but sometimes you're left with no option but drag in substitutes from other nations (but within the same period) to fill in any shortfalls. And they can make life a little easier as well as providing lots of WTF moments to any casual spectator of your mad gaming. There is also the option of borrowing minis from others who are willing to share. Promise them whatever if you're that desperate. There is also the gaming community who are, after all (trumpet fanfare), the best guys (and gals) in the world when it comes to helping out a fellow gamer. 

NOTE: This analysis relates specifically to the trials and tribulations associated with staging such a large-scale activitiy as a SOLO WARGAMER. As they so often prudently say, "never attempt this at home, folks..." And, to be honest, if I had a chance to reconsider this, I would say "Damn the torpedoes! Full steam ahead!" I say that as a deranged solo wargamer.  Multi-player gaming has a similar approach but handles it differently and the problems faced therein are easier to resolve. But with solo wargaming there is only you. You are all alone in a room full of clutter.

Planning the Game

RULES. Obvious. Never considered changing the rules mid-game. I thought about it before I began the refight for some time, and explored the various other rulesets out there at the time. And to be honest there are a number of really good Nap wargaming rules. But in the end I opted for the lazy solution of playing with what I knew. And that was Field of Glory Napoleonic version 2 which is as convoluted as it can get. In its short life it has proven to be off-putting for a number of players. However it's one I was as familiar as one can be. And rules can get updated so decide if you want to switch if you know this is a trait as with 40K updates. Sensibility suggests that you do not take this approach because (1) you don't fully comprehend the scale of changes with the updated version and will spend time adapting them to your current situation, and (2) it can break the flow of game play which can impact on appreciation. 

TABLE. For me, it was a continuation of the applying the scaled down ground scale to come up with the playing surface, subsequently modified to suit the venue space. Ideally, you want a large size space to accommodate your "special event". If not, as pointed out, you alter to suit your needs. In my case, I pared down the table to the main fighting areas, coming up with six normal (6 by 4) table-sized boards. And then "built" my gaming table from there. It meant shifting two table boards to another room due to lack of adequate space (you need to move around the damn thing to begin with) in the main room where four table boards were combined to make one large main table.

OBJECTIVE. What is your ultimate aim is the obvious question. But there are considerations affecting that outcome. You will have to ask if this will be historical or what-if contest. Borodino began as historical (used the actual historical timeline to devise the number of turns based on the rules I was using) but turned into a what-if game simply because the historical part went out the door early on. Thereafter it was just a series of questions asking, "What if I did this...." or "What about that approach...", and so on. Which only muddied up the original aim. Revisions finally led to the final Game Victory Points (GVP) system devised in a moment of inspiration and quickly adopted on-the-fly. 

Having a clear aim from the start is very important. It helps direct you towards a goal. Wandering aimlessly, as I did at times, can give birth to a slow-moving game that can have a detrimental effect on both motivation and enthusiasm. 

They break down battlefield tactics into two main grouping - strategic importance and tactical value. One relates to overall aim. It is generally political in nature - if I capture A it might force the enemy to relinquish B which means I can advance on to C bypassing D. Tactical value relates specifically to what's in front of you - taking the fleches will open up the Russian defensive line and I can then rush up my supports. 

When dealing with a tabletop objective, you are basically talking tactical. But their achievements impacts on your strategic goal(s). Identifying them as objectives therefore is an important part of the preparation. 

Do you assign a score value to them? And how much? There are other factors, like timeline, specific conditions, and so on. Consider them all carefully before formulating a suitable overall objective. Beat the Russians! Fine, but how are you going to do this?

SCORING. The rules gives a simple straightforward victory outcome based on a points value system. Which works fine for standard 800-point small corps-level games. But I was running several Armies at once with multiple Corps. I had to come up with something more simplified and direct. Eventually ended up with GVP system mentioned above that related to the tactical objectives. And that's something you have consider; is the level of your game going to overwhelm the system available? Will you have to devise your own - which is a given but the basic scoring fundamentals remain the same nonetheless?

KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid. Axiom to live by. You don't want a Gordian knot situation when you take on such a project; use Alexander's solution: cut it down to size. There will be many moments throughout when you are constantly reviewing and revising your project. Be flexible. Never see anything as being set in stone; if implacable or unmovable, then either accept it or, if not possible, change the goal posts. If I could number on my fingers the number of changes I've made over the length of this project, I would need to be one of those multi-handed deities of old (thinking Shiva). 

Game Play

MOTIVATION - This factor does not relate to actual game play specifically. But it is important. Pace yourself. Motivation/enthusiasm/whatever you want to call it is very relevant and important to your actual playing state of mind. If you cannot be bothered, don't even go near the project. Do something else. Walk the dog. Spend time with family and partner. Go shopping. Once all that energy is redirected elsewhere, game time motivation will return as your enthusiasm returns or is renewed. Never tabletop game unless prepared to do so. 

TIME - For Borodino, I ended up playing one part of a turn because each phase would take a while. So, I would start with the French (who always played first every turn) and go through all the phases of the turn for all the units. Sometimes, even then, I would not finish play for every sector: I ended breaking down my Borodino refight into three specific areas: Table 2 or Utitsa, Main Table - the fleches (and surrounding area), and Main Table - the redoubt (which also included Gorki as it got embroiled in the action). When I did play, I played through to its conclusion before calling it a day. In FoGN 2 these are the following phases:

• Command Points Allocation Phase (Command "pip" given out by active side commander)
• Assault Phase (where active side declares assaults, and the reactions following by those assaulted)
• Firing Phase (where the active side get to shoot and the inactive side responds)
• Movement Phase (all movements by the active side only)
• Combat Phase (primarily by those charging and subsequent actions)
• Recovery Phase (who ordered fries with their coke? moment by active side. Inactive side cmdrs moved)

So the above happens thrice (three sectors, remember). Making for eighteen actions all up in turn, by one side; there is still the other side to go. A tiring session that affects game turn time and motivation. If I could do it differently I would but I did NOT think it through that far enough so laboured with what I had at the time. No regrets but I wish I had found a more efficient approach. 

BATREP - To simplify and save time I used photos a great deal. Coupled with hand writing a record of what happened, my batrep was created as it was played. Simple system that works for me but not necessarily for others. 

CASUALTIES - Easy to overlook at times in the excitement that is tabletop gaming. But if you remove a stand, or three, make sure you return them to their original storage containers. Do not rely on your memory by placing them at whatever handy location is available as, and I can verify that personally, you will forget where they belong (ID, remember?). 

ACCESSORIES - I've had these guys with me throughout. They've proven their worth many times over and are just as important as your minis and should never be overlooked nor under-utilised.

Dice - make sure you have all the required dice needed to conduct the game. I use colour to help differentiate between sides as sometimes a lot of dice are rolled. And I like to be uniform with the dice used: for Borodino green dice allocated to the Russians and blue for the French/Allies. Simple and straightforward. And red dice for artillery of both sides to differentiate firing between inter branch - usually whenever artillery and infantry were firing upon the same target. 

Markers - have more than enough as they are essential to any gamer's peace of mind as well as provide instant recognition of the fate of said unit. Can be as detailed and of any quality as long as you know what they represent. My original FoGN cohesion level markers were insufficient so I roped in LoTR boxed game counters to represent the various stages of unit's cohesiveness. In other words, I just grabbed whatever was handy at the time in large numbers and stayed with it. 

Measuring tape - some use rods marked off in different coloured unit of measure. For FoGN the standard unit length is called MU (abbreviation for Movement Unit) where 1 MU equals 1.5 inches (for 20mm). But I've always used a proper measuring tape harking back to my construction working days and never really deviated from it when that use transferred to the tabletop. Sampled the rod approach but they become awkward and are prone to snapping or bending whenever annoyed or misplaced.

Refreshments - it goes without saying that sometimes you can so caught up in the game that you forget to refuel the body. But...and I say this cautiously because I love my food...take proper refreshment breaks that are timed, like you're supposed to do so at work but always go over that time limit (2 hour lunches for example). Also, do not eat while playing unless it's to sip water or, in my case, barista coffee; it's messy and your eating can "infect" the tabletop and your precious minis. 

Camera/Camera Phone - this, for me, has been indispensable for wargaming as a whole. It has really enhanced my gaming experience without any doubt. And as they say, a picture paints a thousand words. It's really important to have a good camera that can take decent photos, ie close-ups and wide-angled. I hand-hold whenever taking my game shots because it's both quick and convenient yet you can have camera stands set up (out of the way, of course) as well that can really give your presentation greater appeal and appreciation. I have a couple of small stands that I can attach my smartphone but have yet to use them in a game. I may film a snail race though just to test its viability. Hoping I don't get Turbo though. 

SCHEDULE - Easily forgot (as I just did and thereby having to re-edit this post). Be generous with the time allocated to this project. But always have an end date set. Don't let it drag on and on, as I did. Pare down the schedule if necessary. If it wasn't for the constant feedback I was receiving I may still be playing this refight. And, like I've said before, I needed my studio back sooner rather than later. 

===========================

Summary

I feel that this analysis is missing more. But then I also believe I've said enough; I really don't have more time to waste on this refight. Happy gaming.

============================

7 April 2024: The Russian Invasion of 1812 - Other engagements

Preliminary preparation part

"Never say never..."

The thought of what to do with all those Russians has been niggling at me for a couple of days now. And so I figured why not check out other battles of the Russian 1812 campaign. And happened across this smaller action between a combined Franco-Bavarian force comprising the French II Corps (Oudinot) and the Bavarian VI Corps (St-Cyr) up against the Russian I Corps (Wittengstein).

Compared to Borodino this should be a stroll in the park, right?

I have picked this action primarily because I have plenty of Bavarians whom I was collecting for the 1809 Danube campaign but who have now been roped into this 1812 mis-adventure. But first I have to convert the actual troops numbers to tabletop unit size. Still using FoGN2 simply because I know it well enough now, ie I know the drill, so to speak. 

Below is the OOB extracted from an online source - Mr Thierry Legrand - from a familiar Napoleonic website that's been around for a long while now. 

Commander rating. I will be giving everyone a Competent rating with one - Oudinot - getting the Charismatic Competent rating because anyone brave to suffer so many wounds as he did over the course of his military career has to be charmed somehow. Not charming like those TV witches from Murica; wrong sense of the word. 

Russian forces

Overall Commanding General (OCG) will be Wittgenstein.

Russian I Corps - d'Auvray*

* d'Auvray filled in for Wittgenstein, the normal commander of the I Corps, on the day of the battle. 

Advance Guard - Kazatchkowsky

• 1 small unit (4 stands) consisting of Jagers with Horse and Artillery attachments. So two stands of Jagers, one stand of Dragoons, one gun stand.

First Line - GM Berg 

• Bde Kazatchkowsky - comprising two small units of infantry (4 stands each)
• Bde Prince of Siberia - 2 small units of infantry, 1 small unit of Gd heavy cav, 2 med arty btys (4 guns)

Second Line - GM Sazonov

• Bde Lialin - 1 small unit (4 stands) of infantry
• Bde Harpe - 1 small unit (4 stands) of infantry & jagers
• Artillery - 1 light arty bty (2 guns) & 1 med arty bty (2 guns)

Reserve - GL Kahhoffski

• Grenadiers - 1 small unit (4 stands) & 1 large unit (6 stands)
• Dragoons - 1 stand
• Artillery - 1 light gun stand, 1 med gun stand

NB: Large unit comprising grenadiers from six regiments while the small unit is the Converged Grenadiers from the 14th Division even though the listing says that unit comprised two battalions.

Troops under GM Helfreich

• Jagers (2 stands)
• Grenadiers (2 stands)
• Hussars (4 stands)
• Cossacks (1 stand)*
• Guard Cavalry (3 stands)*
• Artillery (2 stands)

* Combined to form single unit

Near Pridouisk - GM Balk

• Jagers (8 stands - 2 small units - 24th and 26th)
• Cavalry (4 stands - 1 small unit of mixed types - Dragoons & Cossacks)
• Artillery (2 stands - 1 small unit of light)

Near Belmonte - Albrecht

• Cavalry (2 stands - Hussars & Cossacks)

===============================

Note: I am going with making all French line infantry regiments veterans in keeping with my earlier assessment or view the force that crossed the Niemen were largely the best of the best that could be spared. The only doubtful part would be the quality and loyalty of some of the various German and Other Allies participating in this grand adventure so I have chosen to make them - with certain exceptions that are known - average drilled which is neither great nor awful.

Franco-Bavarian forces

The Franco-Bavarian forces are under the overall command of Marshal Oudinot whom I've rated as Competent Charismatic simply because he was a wound magnet for such a long time and seemingly led a charmed life. 

French II Corps - Marshal Oudinot

6th Division - Legrand

• 1st Bde - Albert (ill in Polotsk) - 1 small unit of veteran drilled (26th Lt)
• 2nd Bde - Moreau (Competent) - 1 small unit of veteran drilled (56th Ln)
• 3rd Bde - Maison (Competent) - 1 small unit of veteran drilled (19th Ln)
• 4th Bde - Pamplona (Competent) - 1 small unit of Portuguese/Hanseatic poor conscripts (3rd Portuguese/128th Ln)
• Artillery - 1 small unit foot (2 guns), 1 small unit horse (2 guns)

8th Division - Verdier

• 1st Bde - Vivies (Competent) - 1 large unit of veteran drilled (2nd Ln); 1 large unit of poor conscripts (11th Lt)
• 2nd Bde - Pouget (ill in Polotsk) - 1 small unit of average drilled (37th Ln), 2 stands of Dutch poor conscripts (124th Ln)
• Artillery - 2 small units (1 each of foot and horse)

9th Division - Merle

• 1st Bde - Candras - 1 small unit (Swiss) - veteran drilled (1st/2nd Swiss)
• 2nd Bde - Amey - 1 small unit (Croat/Swiss) - average drilled (3rd Prov Croat/4th Swiss)
• 3rd Bde - Coutard - 1 small unit (3 Swiss/123rd Ln Dutch) - average conscripts
• Artillery - 1 small unit 
• 5th Lt Cav Bde - Castex - 2 small units (Chasseurs each)
• 6th Lt Cav Bde - Corbineau - 1 large unit (Chasseurs/Chevau-legers)

3rd Cuirassier Division - Doumerc

• 1st Bde - Berkheim - 1 small unit (Cuirassiers) - veteran drilled
• 2nd Bde - Lheritier - 1 small unit (Cuirassiers) - veteran drilled
• 3rd Bde - Doullembourg - 1 small unit (Dutch cuirassiers/Chevau-legers) - average drilled
• Artillery - 1 small unit (medium)
• Reserve Artillery - Lavoy - 1 small unit (heavy)

Bavarian VI Corps - Saint-Cyr

19th Division - Deroy

• 1st Bde - v. Siebein - 1 small unit (average drilled)
• 2nd Bde - v. Raglovich - 1 large unit (average drilled)
• 3rd Bde - v. Rechberg - 1 small unit (average drilled)
• Artillery - 1 small unit (2 guns)

20th Division - v. Wrede

• 1st Bde - Vincenti - 1 large unit
• 2nd Bde - Beckers - 1 small unit
• 3rd Bde - Habermann - 1 large unit
• Artillery - 1 large unit (3 guns)

Note: I may be missing the mark by rating the commanders the way I have. But for now these rating will suffice and will no doubt change over the course of the campaign as the commander improves or declines accordingly. But on a more practical note, each commander is rated competent so that they get at least one command pip to use for the various tests that will happen during the game.

Cheers....

==========================

8 April 2024: Postscript

Further reading reveals that Swolna was not a battle but more a clash of forces as both sides tried to outflank one another and/or prevent the same happening to them. 

The list above shows the total forces AVAILABLE to either commanders during their detached operations. Oudinot's mission was part of the larger plan by himself and others to protect Napoleon's left flank.

13 April 2024

The unit sizes are very small for Swolna and consisted of only forward elements of Oudinot's corps encountering the Advance Guard of Oudinot's command. The outcome saw the Russians push hard and capture the forward village outpost and press the French back to the river crossings. The intervention of Doumerc's heavy cavalry helped stabilise one front being assaulted while the other river crossing was stoutly defended by the lone French infantry unit holding that sector. In the end, it was a Russian victory. 

This skirmish engage with the ruleset which I openly confess still throws up lots of page-turning moments. Which is par for the course for a declining memory, and not confined to just FoGN 2.

Anyway, I will refight Swolna some time later in the year on a small table. In the meanwhile I will continue to search for a suitable larger engagement to involve my Borodino collection which is what I will now rename this part of my larger Nap collection. And thus allow me the opportunity to finally table my other favourite Napoleonic nation - the Empire of Austro-Hungary.

Cheers.

=======================================

7 April 2024: Reviewing the workbench schedule - what's idling, dude?!

Currently on my conscious awareness level. Sometimes bobbing up and down.

New project #1

• Period: English Civil War
• Scale: 25mm
• Rules:  Victory without Quarter rules
• Venue/location: local garage gaming group
• Allegiance: Parliament
• Faction: New Model Army (circa 1642)
• Comment: for garage gaming primarily but also to supply additional troops for a show game in November. Also supplying the game cards which I will be designing and printing.

New project #2

• Period: American Civil War
• Scale: 20mm
• Rules: see Comment
• Venue/location: Solo wargame
• Allegiance: n/a
• Faction: n/a
• Comment: Rules to be created, a house set derived from elements drawn from two existing yet different rulesets - one devised by the late Mr Terence Wise and the other (partially available) provided by Mr Graham L. Empson

Existing project #1

• Period: World War 1
• Scale: 20mm
• Rules: Canvas Eagles
• Venue/location: Casual gaming
• Allegiance: Aerial
• Faction: n/a
• Comment: Individual and eventually multi-plane (flight/squadron-level) dogfights

Existing project #2

• Period: World War II
• Scale: 1/700
• Rules: General Quarters III
• Venue/location: Solo wargame
• Allegiance: Naval
• Faction: n/a
• Comment: Finishing off island terrain and setup for a carrier borne operation later on this year

Existing project #3

• Period: All
• Scale: various
• Rules: n/a
• Venue/location: Mancave
• Allegiance: n/a
• Faction: n/a
• Comment: Lumping ALL my remaining painting projects into this grouping. Includes models and terrain. Will never complete everything by 31 December but will give it an attempt.

Existing project #4

• Period: Fantasy
• Scale: 28mm
• Rules: Burrows and Badgers
• Venue/location: Mancave
• Allegiance: TBD
• Faction: TBD
• Comment: Skirmish warband style gaming with anthropomorphic creatures

================

13 April 2024 - Addendum

Workbench remains but circumstance change. New interests kick in to distract attention away from the workbench scheduling. But as long as it's published, I can't make any excuse other than failure to complete. 

5 April 2024: Borodino Refight review (a light-hearted look back)

Initial Planning (Alright, who pushed me outa the plane?!)

Factors to consider are briefly outlined below. There are others I have ignored or forgotten as I have moved on to other projects on my "workbench". One word of caution: if anyone is considering a large-scale historical refight solo, DON'T. I say this because this is no lightweight activity. It's a challenge that's worth the while but fraught with perils you cannot imagine without first of all having the courage to undertake it. And the determination.

Venue (Beer or Port?)

I had always figured to use my back decking area once I sorted out the proposed dimensions when scaling down the actual ground of the battlefield to a suitable tabletop size (the rules you choose will heavily factor into this calculation). Its pluses included a well ventilated scenic setting that was under cover. The space could easily accommodate a custom-sized table. The negatives were largely elemental, exposure to the outdoor elements - wind, rain, night and day creatures - and an irritable wife.

Objectives (for those king of the hill moments)

I had no clear idea what the game objectives would be. Studied a few existing archives sources for both ideas and clues but nothing registered mentally although they were very good and successful in their games. But as this was a solo attempt and I was using a ruleset that did not fully cater to large-scale army group battles, I was going in blind and had to conjure up some sort of magical ideal.  

By the time of the game started I opted for tying in significant historical moments, coupled with adopted time schedule, into a basic simplified system of victory objectives. As the game progressed below that of snail pace however I soon became dissatisfied with this setup. Plus the constant revisions to the system proved to me, on reflection post-refight, that I was not completely sold with what I had created in the first instance. 

In the end, as the game wore on into months of inaction followed by a couple of days of wearing gaming, I binned the modified systems (there were more than one attempt) and substitued with a new one (the Game Victory Points system) drummed up in one minute of inspired navel-gazing. And it appeared at a most opportune time. One gets lucky sometimes. 

I also needed my mancave back because the spiders were building condominiums on the bookshelves and about to install an interconnected high speed transit system!

Terrain (Don't think about storage afterwards)

Salient features like the 3 fleches (a 4th was near the ruined village), the redoubt (nothing Grand about a killing field), the Borodino church, the bridges over the Kolocha, and others - need constructing if only to give the whole spectacle a visual confirmation and reference point for anyone interested. This all takes time unless you already possess the terrain pieces or are handy with a modelling tool and possess the necessary skill to construct these items scratchbuilt. My attempts have been barely-basic but more than adequate for my needs.  

Archiving (Penmanship or Photos?)

There were moments - months actually - where nothing happened with the game. Even though I left the game setup in my mancave, it takes time to get back into that game mood after a period of non-playing. That's where keeping records proves itself most useful. But it DOES take a few minutes to get your game mind active again so be mindful of this. Hopefully your record writing skills are legible enough. Photos indeed say it well so that tool was heavily used throughout as the numerous batrep post attest. 

Getting Others Involved (not your partner though)

I tried to entice my regular gaming buddy who was initially enthusiastic at first. I did this because, at various times throughout this project, I was overwhelmed by the enormity of it all. And I therefore reached out for help. But circumstance and opportunity changes with time which rubs away at the best of intentions. In the end I ended up "going solo" as intended. And, to be honest, it worked out for the best. But I would never attempt this again on the fly (says he who will repeat this mistake no doubt in the near future); proper preparation is vital and essential. 

Plan Everything (except toilet breaks)

Crucial to proper preparation is having a plan to get the momentum under way. During my dim past, I was taught how to prepare instructional lesson plans. First step is drafting the outline plan - bare-bones basic overall aim and conduct of the lesson. Once sorted out, then you prepared your detailed plan breaking down the lesson components into actionable parts; the nitty gritty stuff. This approach has stayed with me lifelong-since. And that's how I've approached this refight project from the moment when I sighed heavily and jumped off the cliff-of-no-return. Over the course of the project, many times over, I have revised and even discarded my gameplan to suit the times and needs of the moment. On the fly might be an accurate description.

Flexibility (not the contortionist kind)

Be flexible in your approach. Nothing is set in stone unless it's your headstone. And will you notice when you're dead? Hardly. Remember if doing this solo, NO ONE CARES! So any expectations or concerns in that regard are a simply a waste of time. What matters is the end-result. Finish what you start. Life's much too short for regrets so they say; bet it was said by someone who regretted their life story.

Summary

To say I am done with this refight is a gross understatement. From start to finish it has consumed a great deal of my time and energy. There were moments when I wanted to burn all the minis: put them in a empty forty galloon and watch them burn and hear their imaginary screams. At other times, I would be left gobsmacked in awe (like those moments when it's you and Mother Nature alone together under the clear night sky in the Southern Alps) and marvel at the fact that this was of my own doing. My very own creation. 

Yes, there is a sense of achievement in finishing it...finally. What began as a simple painting task soon ballooned and blossomed until it took on a life of its own. Right now, it kind of feels like Old Man Fredricksen at Paradise Falls leafing through the album his late wife Ellie left him. And her enduring message: "Thanks for the adventure. Now go and have a new one!"

It has been worth the whole experience - every up and every down. Would I do it again? Nah. Once is enough. But you can never say never; at least that's what a lifelong study of history has taught me. 

Take care.

=========================

2 April 2024: English Civil War - New Model Army

New adventure. New challenges. New army.

Tonight I made a start on my New Model Army by ordering a quantity of cavalry - Ironsides, Harquebusiers, Dragoons - for our VWQ games.

Concentrated on the Left Wing of my proposed NMA. Commander will be Henry Ireton of this wing.  Cromwell is commander of the Right wing.

Tonight I acquired enough troops to form the four units of this wing - Butler, Vermuyden, Ireton, Okey. A squadron each is a good start. Two Ironsides, one Carabinier, one Dragoon. But it was a struggle to figure things out given I am still new to the entire period. It's not familiar to me like the Napoleonic or American Civil War. 

Later on I will make a start on the Infantry and Artillery element but through another retailer. One who offers army deals. 

Already ordered Personalities from USA - Fairfax, Skippon, Waller, Essex, Cromwell, Manchester. Haven't arrived yet. 

========================

3 April 2024

Made second order in two days - infantry and artillery. So the core components of my New Model Army is now settled. Still missing the right wing cavalry but that's okay. Will acquire those later on in the year. 

Now I have enough "reinforcements" to bolster my fellow Roundhead's show army - 4 cavalry units, 5 infantry units, 3 regimental guns plus crews, five personalities plus HQ elements (aides, colonels, generals). 

Still going to run Fairfax as overall commander because I like his history. Cromwell is, by far, the more famous leaving a greater footprint on history, yet Fairfax, for me, is a more interesting character. 

• Army Commander - Fairfax (Cromwell as backup)
• Infantry - Skippon
• Skippon's Foot
• Waller's Foot
• Pickering's Foot
• Montagu's Foot
• Fairfax's Foot
• Cavalry - Ireton
• Butler's Horse
• Vermuyden's Horse
• Ireton's Horse
• Okey's Dragoons
• Artillery - TBA
• 3 x Falcon cannons + crews
• Headquarters 
• Couriers/Aides
• Generals
• Colonels

========================

4 April 2024

Spent my entire modelling budget for the next two years starting this new adventure. The killer has been the shipping cost but you grin and bear it. Close to nine hundred dollars spent. Figures are all 25mm Hinchliffe minis which are decent sculpts that will paint up well.

Will also print out a sample sheet of the show game cards over the weekend. Was trawling through the emails from the group to ID the listings. Proved interesting viewing as I now have names rather than soul-less numbers.

The group have settled on a grand battle with four armies clashing come show day. For the Royalist side, there will be the English Royalists coupled with the army of Montrose from north of the border. For the Roundheads, it will be a mixed grouping of Parliamentarians allied with an army of Scottish Covenanters. 

=========================

5 April 2024

Received notification my orders are on their way from the UK. Should be with me in two weeks time. Got a partial refund on the postage which is cool. Also got a few extras thrown in by the generous supplier. 

Started the Show cards. Sample draft version below. Guys want something plain with plain backing and frontpiece showing the different armies in distinctive coloured border: Parliament orange, Royalist red, Montrose blue, Covenanter light/pale blue. 

Sample done on A6 sheet. Card size will be standard playing card size. 

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1 April 2024: Borodino Refight - French Turn 10

Interrupted session at the end meant I was only able to partially complete the full French turn. But what unfolded proved suprisingly interesting. 

Background

Decided to make a change to the game objectives for the simple reason I want to wind this refight up sooner rather than later. So I made the following change (on the fly of course) by scrapping the existing systems and introducing Game Victory Points (GVP) with the stipulation that earning at least three (or more) is sufficient cause to end the game. Each side has their own specific objectives and conditions:

• French
• Capture and defend ALL the fleches for 2 consecutive game turns without being dispossessed = 1 GVP
• Capture and defend the redoubt for 3 consecutive turns uninterrupted = 1 GVP
• Reach and exit enemy side of table at Old Post Road with at least one Steady/Disordered unit (of any kind) = 1 GVP
• Reach and exit enemy side of table via New Post Road with at least one Steady/Disordered unit (of any kind) = 1 GVP
• Kill/capture/rout any enemy Corps/Army commander = 1 GVP
• Russian
• Cause total of 25% or more casualties upon the enemy, can be cumulative = 1 GVP
• In full control (defended, not just occupied) of ALL three fleches by the end of the Russian phase of Turn 15 = 1 GVP
• Same condition as above but for Grand Redoubt = 1 GVP
• Kill/capture/rout any enemy Corps/Army commander = 1 GVP
• Cross over the Kolocha and begin to threaten/attack enemy rear or flank = 1 GVP 

Note: there are five conditions for both sides. 

Utitsa

Outnumbered and outmuscled, the Foch's grenadiers clung to the tiniest glimmer of hope. However, it was to prove to be both futile and as elusive as world peace. A still pond has always proven an irresistible temptation to those with stones. 

Foch's grenadiers made their last stand against the assaulting Polish cavalry who easily steamrolled them. The unit broke and fled off the gaming table. 

The fate of the Russian commanders are next determined. Stroganov survives by fleeing towards the nearest Russian unit - Shakovsky's Jagers. But Tuchkov is caught and he is the first Corps commander to fall. 1 GVP to the French. Two to go.

Lost: Tuchkov (III Corps commander) & Foch's grenadier brigade.

But the Polish cavalry continue their pursuit and slam into the flank of the Jagers who break. The ensuing melee sees Stroganov forced to flee again. The Polish horse are now blown and thus halt after this second round of combat.

Lost unit - Shakovsky's Jagers (20th and 21st Jagers)

The Westphalian heavy cavalry earn the second GVP in this turn by moving to table edge and exit the Old Post road. Rozniecki's brigade hasten to support the Germans.

Musketry firing at Utitsa proves both pointless and useless with neither side causing any serious damage at medium range apart from smoking up their respective locations. Perhaps the supporting Polish artillery, when it finally show up, might turn the situation in the Poles favour? Or the Russians could use the smoke as cover to make good their escape, although that window is quickly closing.

The situation at the conclusion at Table 2 is now finalised with the Russian left flank virtually non-existent. Only one unit remains but it is completely surrounded. Tuchkov himself is a casualty. The Mound and Utitsa are lost to the French. And the Old Post road is now unguarded. 

Correction

I just remembered that Karpov routed in Turn 8 so his loss is another GVP which means the tally required to end the game has been reached. But I will complete this interrupted batrep because something interesting happened.

Main Table - Fleches

The French are defending the two fleches they've captured. The third fleche is spotted and the French plan on capturing it next. With the arrival of Russian reinforcement last turn, the French push forward their support - cuirassiers and more infantry. 

Perhaps this decision, on post-match reflection, was a knee-jerk one on my part. But the situation was urgent with the Russian Lifeguard cavalry proving a barrier to any future advance in that region. And the French heavy cavalry were too far away and needed time to reach the area. So it was decided to rush forward Ney's light cavalry to stall until the heavies could arrive and restore the situation in the French favour. 

Ney's light cavalry comrpised two large units (six stands). And what was sent in was one of those large units plus half of the other. Facing them however, was a Russian Guard elite unit: they were shock heavy cavalry. The Napoleonic equivalent of a mini Death Star as I like to call them. 

Despite facing two units, the Russians were more than capable scoring four hits on each cavalry units. One unit broke. Ney, leading the other (large) unit, became the first senior French commander to fall. Which was a surprising situation.

Lost: Ney (III Corps commander) & 4th Light Cavalry brigade who also took Russian musketry as it closed into combat and fought as Wavering. 

At this point, the game was interrupted by a family matter. Perhaps fortuituous timing intervened? But given I had just made adjustments regarding objectives and these were now met, I figured this was an appropriate moment to call it a day. Finally. 

I will summarise the entire experience later on this week. Cheers.

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